Purfume Culture and Gay / by Nao-Horomura


Obviously, perfume culture itself is to a great degree gay culture, though some people think you’re not supposed to say it. Gay guys were bored with all these stupid hairy-chested male fragrances and went out and bought Alpona, by Caron, which is wonderful. Actually, there aren’t many gay perfumers. It’s weird. Jean Guerlain said, ‘I composed Chamade for my then girlfriend,’ and I thought, ‘Right.’ Turned out it was true. I mean, it’s not weird in that the Grasse milieu is still completely homophobic—I know one young guy who was not taken in perfume school simply because he was gay. Mind you, he was also a raging pain in the ass, but so what? The thing is, all their customers are gay, and you’d think it would be to their advantage to have a few around ‘in house.’ But instead they get Englishmen. Fashion is gay. We’re living under a gay dictatorship;

— チャンドラ・バール著『匂いの帝王 天才科学者ルカ・トゥリンが挑む嗅覚の謎』金子浩訳、早川書房 “The Emperor of Scent: A Story of Perfume, Obsession, and the Last Mystery of the Senses” Chandler Burr